10/5/11

Purple Rain

Back in Stockholm again after a month of climbing in Bohuslän. Even though our timing with the weather has been horrible I must say we've had a very good time and my goal to get a hint of what I could do on trad was still quite succesful. I got to do some really nice onsights and redpoints like Torline, Masken, Afterburner, Mixing matrix, and Chapman. Bohuslän has so many beautiful lines and I think I'm mostly impressed by the grand wall of Hallinden which has so many perfect cracks that are really challenging and mostly well protected.
Häller in all it's grace is from a distance a very stunning peace of rock and even though it houses some great routes it's definately not my first choice of crag. I found crags such as Galgberget, Välseröd, Ulorna and Hallinden much more pleasent and charming with there lawns, open suroundings and the amount of world class routes.
I have already gotten myself some unfinished business here so I got to go back soon.To be honest I really don't see any reason for going anywhere else in the world for singlepitch trad climbing anyway.

I feel like I want to say something more about the extremly bad weather of september 2011.. But I guess it's just redundant to say anything more than that it wasn't favorable to climbing. This is also a reason to why the documentation of the trip hasn't been very substantial and that's why I'm now posting a clip of Prince doing a world class performance by soloing like no climber could ever do.

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