10/27/11

Super Dupont

Another stunning day on the midi, this time we tried the route Super Dupont on the south face. Due to evil clouds in the distance we decided to only try the upper half of the route. I was mainly interested in the 7b crux pitch so it didn’t matter that much anyway.
Mike started up the first pitch which had a quite stiff 6a+ roof section in it. After that I tried the crux pitch which was a cool and pumpy undercling into a weird finger crack, I struggled my way up it and really wanted another go but the ever present clouds and the fact that it had snowed on us just a few minutes earlier made me give up that thought and we continued up the last two pitches to the top.
I knew my time in Chamonix was coming to an end and I wouldn’t have time to go back and try it again this year.
I guess it’s good to have some stuff to come back to as well :)



10/5/11

Purple Rain

Back in Stockholm again after a month of climbing in Bohuslän. Even though our timing with the weather has been horrible I must say we've had a very good time and my goal to get a hint of what I could do on trad was still quite succesful. I got to do some really nice onsights and redpoints like Torline, Masken, Afterburner, Mixing matrix, and Chapman. Bohuslän has so many beautiful lines and I think I'm mostly impressed by the grand wall of Hallinden which has so many perfect cracks that are really challenging and mostly well protected.
Häller in all it's grace is from a distance a very stunning peace of rock and even though it houses some great routes it's definately not my first choice of crag. I found crags such as Galgberget, Välseröd, Ulorna and Hallinden much more pleasent and charming with there lawns, open suroundings and the amount of world class routes.
I have already gotten myself some unfinished business here so I got to go back soon.To be honest I really don't see any reason for going anywhere else in the world for singlepitch trad climbing anyway.

I feel like I want to say something more about the extremly bad weather of september 2011.. But I guess it's just redundant to say anything more than that it wasn't favorable to climbing. This is also a reason to why the documentation of the trip hasn't been very substantial and that's why I'm now posting a clip of Prince doing a world class performance by soloing like no climber could ever do.