7/20/14

MAY I?

Morgan and I went up to try his project located next to Kil-löparen. It's a thin crack that trends slightly leftwards up the wall. superb quality up a thin crack that eases off as it gets wider! In other words there's two new cracks to enjoy not far from the campground in Lofoten!

7/9/14

First ascent on Geitgalertind, Lofoten

Me and my friend Lars Martin managed to do a First ascent on the SW-Face of Geitgaljertind in Lofoten. We did as much free as possible but due to wet and partly overgrown sections we did not manage to do all pitches free. The route goes as for now at A1 7 but the crown pitch (a 40 meter steep chimney will most likely end up at around 8-/8 if freed.
It took us about 16 hours from car to car, but we had some hard snow on the approach that slowed us down about 1,5 hours. In dry conditions the approach should take about 2 hours. The wall is about 320m long and Geitgaljertind is the second highest peak in Lofoten.
The route takes the most obvious line through the face and should be considered a proper alpine climb.