Mixing matrix and safety margins

Yesterday we spent the afternoon at Häller where we did Chapman, meanwhile two Norweigan guys climbed on the route beside us (mallorol) We didn't talk that much we mainly agreed on the superb quality of the routes we were climbing. When we were down on the ground we saw the Norweigans again, now toproping on the route Dreadline 9- r/x. We talked a little bit more about the route and after we had watched him fly up the route on toprope we said goodbye and went home. Today as I was surfing on the internet I red that there had been a serious accident at Häller with a young Norweigan guy involved.....

Bohuslän has already taught me alot about being careful instead of careless when it comes to go for the lead on a route. The harder routes here are mostly safe to climb but in generall the protection can be quite hard to find. Toproping routes first is a good idea and often necessary but apparently some times that isn't enough either. 

A good example of a route that has safe but tricky protection is the route I did today called Mixing Matrix. The protection is bomber from bottom to top but tricky to find. After toproping it once, I knew what protection to use and where to put it. This meant that I could concentrate on the beautiful moves and still have a satisfying safety margin.

First moves in the thin crack

The top crux of the route