10/22/14

Do we need a term for something in between bouldering and free soloing?

I have seen this beautiful peace of rock since I first came to Lofoten. It is one of the many roadside boulders that are littered through out  the island.  This summer I finally went over there and took a closer look and realized it was possible though the grade was highly uncertain. It was clear that it needed some cleaning hanging from a rope and possibly even a ladder. Some days later Me and Jonas went back with all equipment needed for our mission. After cleaning it and roughly starting to see the way it climbs I let go of the initial idea of giving it a flash attempt - it's very high with a bad landing.

I worked out the moves on top rope and sent it soon after...

Do we need a term for something in between bouldering and free soloing? I've climbed a bunch of high balls, the first few that comes to mind are Linds långa linje - Kjugekull, A Thrilla in Manilla - Jumkil, Liquid explosion - Lofoten and obviously the one above. All of those lines are high enough that a fall from the top would mean a trip to the hospital with a probable life changing injury. In my world I have a hard time seeing the difference between high balling and free soloing - the term high ball feels contrived.
I've started to think that maybe we use it to get an excuse to go free soloing both mentally (to ourselves) and ethically towards our friends. Most of us climbers have very strong ethics against free soloing but high balling is usually ok - even though the difference in consequence of a fall is irrelevant. Before Fear of Temptation I didn't see my self as a climber that was into free soloing but after I did it I started to question if I HONESTLY could count my self to that group anymore.
I enjoyed climbing it very much and the intense experience that comes with such climbs is really unique,  every decision made and move executed is the most important thing of your life at that moment.


I really respect the thought that you shouldn't go free soloing at crags where it is crowded and least of all were there are children around, but maybe we should loosen up a little when it comes to our harsh ethics against free soloing and especially not judge anyone practicing the discipline.

Maybe we should stop disguise the act of free soloing in terms like high balling, and just see it for what it is.

*Movie made by Jonas Paulsson

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