My goal this winter has been to train enough to be able to step up my climbing level a bit, I wanted to project an 8a because it has always been the magical grade for me (and for many other climbers I guess). But the big goal has of course just been to become a better climber.
Since I practice most diciplines in climbing including big routes in the mountains it has always been important for me to have a high lowest level. Even though I now have managed to do two 8a:s it doesn't make me a solid climber at that level, non of the two routes came easy and I had to struggle really hard both physically and mentally to be able to do them. I still won't jump on harder trad multipitches than 6c+, maybe 7a.
I guess all I want to say is that I'm freakin stoked to have done an 8a but climbing is such a lovely an complex sport that you're making a mistake if you take a grad for granted.
I keep on struggling with my 7as and 7bs and I'm going to be almost equally stoked when I send them.
Here's a movie about my fight on the Vampirella projekt filmed and edited by Bjarne Sahlen.
Also check out his amazing videoblog, which is getting a lot of attention!
Endlessflow.posterous.com
Carl Granlund is climbing "Vampirella" 8a from Bjarne Sahlen on Vimeo.
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