Random stuff!

A lot of work and bad wheather the last week here in Chamonix has kept us from going out sending our projekts. So with nothing in particular to tell and wright about, I thought I might as well upload some random pictures from a few bouldering sessions around chamonix with friends Jonny Baker and Will Sim.
Me on a delicate problem on the new (upper) sector in Medonnet.
Jonny crusing the 7a-extension of the classic boulder in Medonnet
Me trying the same thing
Trying the completely chipped but fun 6c-boulder in the forests of Bosson

New movie from a day in Haute Savoie !

Bjarne, Micke and me went to La Maquise a few days ago to check the condition of the crag and of course to climb a few nice routes.
This is a north facing crag just an hour from chamonix. It has alot o nice routes from 6c to 8b, most of the routes are between 25 and 35 meters with alot of jugs and athletic climbing. Very steep and very 3D. A great place to build endurance!
However Bjarne made a little film about it!
Don't forget to check out all the movies Bjarne has done on his videoblog!
http://endlessflow.posterous.com/

Sport Climbing Is starting from Bjarne Sahlen on Vimeo.

Chasse a Cour!

At last my project in Bionnossay went down! My proudest ascent so far and a bit of a milestone in my climbing carrer :). Even though I could link the route in two sections on the second try, it ended up taking about 5-7 days and maby around 15 tries before I finally did it. I got one move closer every time the last three days that I tried it, and it felt more like a mental game than lack of strength and stamina.
When I did it yesterday on my second try it just felt so easy and every thing was in harmoni :)
If your a climber you know what I'm talking about.
However Bjarne Sahlén is one of the guys that's been with me to try the route a couple of times and he has also taken som nice pictures. Enjoy!

Michelle belaying
Half way up the crux The last part is on easier ground but insecure enough to be able to fall of.

The good rest hold before the top


So cool to be able to do an 8a but if it wasn't for the quality of the route I would never be able to motivate my self to go back and try it as many times as I did!
Satisfaction!

Autumn session in Sweden

Last autumn I went home to Sweden to meet up with family and friends and of course to go climbing. Here's some pictures from bouldering in Kjugekull and Västervik.
The climbing movie from Västervik that I uploaded here a few weeks ago, is also a result of those days, so check it out if you haven't done that yet!

Me on the super estetik Moby Dick boulder in Kjugekull.
I have done the first and the second move, but the full ascent remains undone for me :)Me and Tobbe trying to dry up the wet holds on Nightshift 8b.


Tobias who is swedens strongest Boulderer at the moment did Nightshift on our stay in Västervik. I only did the stand start which is 7c in it self :)

Medonnet

During the winter season we've been down to Medonnet a few times for some bouldering. I have to say that every time I start walking in to the forest where the boulders are, I get blown away by the beauty of the place! A small little area with really high class boulders! Here are some pictures from a few sessions, enjoy!



Johnny on a really cool and fun boulder around 7a?




Mike on a nice but high boulder with bad landing :)

One of the best boulders in the area. We have found to variations.
one goes straight up from small holds to a jug and then an interesting finish 7a+/7b maybe?
Going for the jug.
And the other version goes from the small holds, out left on bad holds. Probably around 7c/+
The jug version went down, but the hard one needs a little more effort!

Psyched to go back!

In english please!

Okay as you probably have noticed I've started to write in English. I have alot of friends that do not speak swedish and most swedes understand english so it felt pretty logic to do the convertion. With this little change I hope that more people will enjoy following the blogg:).

The projekt in Bionnosay

I've spent quite a few days in Bionnosay (spelling?) this winter since the weather has been really mild in Chamonix. It's a south facing crag with perfect angle and alot of nice routes!
However I've been trying a route here called Chasse a courré, it's a route that does'nt look much to the world when you look at it but the climbing is really nice and sustained with alot of cool moves. Hope to do it soon!
Bionnosay with its Ceuse like black streaks and quite steep angle!


Will Sim, Johannes Granlund and me staying cool


French dude trying the Chasse a Courré

Bjarne is charging his powers.


The projekt
The climbing starts up the ramp and then continues up the slightly overhanging wall.
Bjarne eating homemade brownies :)

klättring på sydsidan aguille du midi

Me and Andreas climbed a nice route on the Aguille Du Midi last summer! A really nice day as usual with good company!
It's so nice that in sandals and a light pack be able to take the cabin up to Midi, from the top rapell down to the start of the route, climb all the way up and then take the cabin down to Chamonix again. You don't need big boots, crampons or a axe! Chamonix is truley amazing in many ways!
Almost at the start of the route
Organised stand, bolted ankare.


Andreas Fransson having a good time on one of the pitches

Compulsery teenage picture while waiting to start climb. (I apologize in advance:)
Postcard picture, it's easy to forget to take a look at the scenary.

Andreas on one of the last pitchesAndreas following on the last tricky pitch.

The tourists are looking and pointing at us as we climb over the top and rapell down
to the station again. Nice picture of the Mont Blanc and the Triangle.