This summer I'm working for Stockholms Guidebyrå which is a company that is organizing climbing and kayaking courses. Last Saturday I held my first intro-day for climbing at Träskberget. I really enjoy this typ of work and it's a great feeling when I can share inspiration with the clients. It's cool when you can almmost take on the motivation of the group and you have their full attention.
The owners Bjorn and Stefan has managed to gather a really nice team of instructors and I am really looking forward for the summer.
Check out their webbsite at www.stockholmsguidebyra.se
5/7/12
Spring at Kjugekull
I went home to see my family in Skåne this Easter
and managed to get one day out at good old Kjugekull! Kjuge is where my
climbing career began. My friend Fredrik and I drove out at least three days a
week for a whole summer with the dream to one day climb a 7a boulder. On our
rest days we got psyched watching Chris Sharma and Dave graham crush hard
boulders in Dosage 1 – 4. Kjugekull was my only reference at the time since I
hadn’t climbed anywhere else so I didn’t think of it as very special compared
to areas like Squamish and Fontainebleau.
However, coming back with more experience from other places I gladly
realised that this place stands really good in comparison to those world known Mekkas.
It seems like other people has the same
opinion considering the amount people that choose to spend their Easter at
Kjugekull!
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| Sitstart on Adamantium |
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| Managed to send first try today, but I had spent two days last year. |
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| Standing in line to try the low start of rocketeer |
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| Did all the moves but linking it was too hard. |
4/30/12
Rodellar
We spent the last week in Spain
During the six days we spent there I felt
that I started to get the Idea of tufa climbing but unfortunately I got sick
the last two days and had to realize that the trip was coming to an end.
My tick list for this trip ended up being
beyond my expectations
- Llima del quatre 7c+
- Nanuk 7c
- Antologica 7c
- Tarragona 7c
- Tros de soca 7b+
- Carcamal 7b+
- El Clan de los M’klau 7b+ onsight
- Sopas de ajo 7b+
- Montrgronyeta 7b+
- Ktploptr 7b+
- Jam session 7b onsight
- ?? (tres ponts) 7b onsight
- Bimbirimboies 7b onsight
- Pitus I flautes 7b onsight
- Mambo
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| Breakfast at the hut |
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| Ted impresses with his send of Pince sans rire 7b+ on his second go. |
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| Me working the crux of Nanuk 7c |
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| Ted on the same route |
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| Ted resting in Gran Boveda |
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| Ted working on Sopas de Ajo 7b+ |
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| Amazing tufas |
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| The big hold is not a good rest hold :) |
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| Last moves before the anchor |
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| Kalandraka at night, a very nice climbers inn. Walking distance from all the climbing you need! |
4/14/12
Margalef
Margalef is one of the most beautiful places I’ve been to and especially the area around Raco de les finestres. I would recommend anyone to go here, climber or not. It just doesn’t deserve to go unnoticed!
The climbing is just as good as they make it look in the movies, if you like pockets. Because it is all pockets, pockets, pockets. I loved it though it is quite hard on your fingers.
After about three days on, me and Bengt decided to have a rest day and go and look at the newly developed areas that we had heard of... There were talk about tufas and we just had to check out if this was true.
We walked far in to the canyon and soon we were surrounded by a jungle-like forest. After a while our trail turned in to a small path and then in to nothing more than a vague evidence that people (or animals) had been there before.
Then, there we stood with a beautiful view over an enormous wall of limestone on the other side of the canyon. We could see a few people multipitching on the wall and… there they were…the Chorreras of Margalef! We couldn’t believe the size of the tufas, they were gigantic!
All of a sudden I felt something licking my hand, surprised I looked down and saw a lone black dog standing there looking at me. I couldn’t spot the owner at first, but then a guy with blond hair came around the corner and and after him a Spanish looking girl. He looked up, called his dog and said hi with a smile. As they came closer we saw that it was no one less than Chris Sharma himself and Daila Ojeda. Chris Sharma walked past me but when he saw Bengt he reached out his hand and said. – Hey I think I’ve seen you before? Bengt shooke it, a bit stunned as if he had just met his childhood hero he replied -I don’t know.. probably here..? Chris Sharma realized that he had mistaken Bengt for someone else so the rest of our conversation was short, we wished them good luck with their projects and they wished us a nice stay in Spain
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| Cranking |
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| Nice climbing in a nice scenary |
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| David enjoying life |
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| Ted is catching his breath |
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| Part of the big wall |
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| The jungle |
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| A climber in the center of the picture |
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| Megatufas! |
3/25/12
Meeting up with Björn and Bengt
After two days in Tres ponts with very cold nights, up to -12, we continued to Vilanova de Meia were we found a supernice little crag. We spent another two days here and did some really nice routes!
After seven days we had our freinds Björn and Bengt comming from Sweden to join us for the rest of the time in Spain. We stayd another few days in Catalunya before we went south to Margalef!
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| Base camp in Vilanova de Meia |
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| Dawn at the same base camp with a big multipitch crag in the background |
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| Björn is happy to be in Spain with us |
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| evening at Ager |
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| Playing with the camera |
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| Breakfast with a nice view |
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| filling up the coffe thermos |
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| A beautiful crag in Catalunya |
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| Base camp in Ager |
3/19/12
Back from the dead!
With renewed motivation it’s time to start writing again. The past few months has mainly involved training, work and travelling. I feel like I’ve finally settled down in Stockholm and it starts to feel more and more like my new home base. To summarize what has happened I’ve started to work with climbing courses at Klätterverket which has given me a lot of valuable experience. I’ve become a certified indoor instructor which was a natural and fun step to take. Next step is to do the final test to become a certified outdoor instructor. To get some more experience as an instructor I am going to work for Guidebyrån this summer. Guidebyrån is a nice little company based in central Stockholm with a good atmosphere that is providing a vast selection of climbing-, kayaking- and ice skating courses with high quality instructors. Check out more about what they are doing here http://www.stockholmsguidebyra.se/.
Last week I came home from three weeks of climbing in Spain and what a beautiful place that is! I went with my good friends Sabine, David, Ted, Björn and Bengt. Bengt, our personal guide for the trip, showed us some very nice spots around Lleida and I will post some pictures here in the weeks to come starting today.
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| Setting up base camp in a wineyard outside Lleida. The first couple of nights surprised us with cold weather down to -12! |
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| First climbing day at Tres ponts just north of Oliana, such a nice and cool day |
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| David playing on a supernice7b named with a question mark!? I think that says a lot about the quality of the climbing in Spain. |
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| Sabine enjoying the sun |
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| I think Ted is enjoying to |
11/1/11
The south america adventure with Andreas and Bjarne
My god friends Andreas and Bjarne are living their dream in South Amerika. Their goal is to climb and ski some of the highest mountains in a number of countries. Everything is well documented on their blogs for us "ordinary Mortals" to follow in a sofa on a safe distance with a bowl of popcorn.
Adventure through the Andes. Peru - episode # 2. from Bjarne Sahlen on Vimeo.
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