Lofoten offered a lot of rain (as usual). However the nice thing with Lofoten is that it does'nt really matter because it dries so fast. I didn't really have any specific climbing goals with the trip but in the end I managed to gather a quite nice tick list.
Me and Magnus Eriksson did a fun but unsuccessful attempt on the supposedly unrepeated Himmel o Helvete on Presten, but after the three initial pitches it became too scary when we had to do an unprotected traverse for ten meters followed by another 10-15m of badly protected seam/slab climbing.
One of the first days me and Frida went to Eggum to do some sport climbing. This place blew me away with the most rare granit formations I've ever seen! It's litterally coverd with pockets and amazing tufa formations.
Recommended routes that I did are Commando, Gullfaks and Alopolsa.
My last climbing day turned out to be the most produktiv one of the trip.
Me and Morgan had a early start and whent to the Gandalf wall to do The Silmarillion which has some cool climbing and a very spactacularly exposed last pitch including som roof-fistjamming.
After we had finished Sillamrillion we went home and refeuelled some energy and went to Paradiset and Butter arms to give it a last try. My fingers were very sore from the last days of crack climbing and after not making it to the top the second try I was ready to give up. But in the end I decided to give it one last go and with a big happy cry out to the world of lofoten I came to the top!
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| The fantastik Eggum |
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| Can you see cheese formations? |
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| Fresh makrill, don't forget to bring a rod! |
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| I stayed at Morgan and Fridas place |
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| Butter arms follows the thin crack going straight up. |
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| A friend of Morgans tried it with me. |
