8/30/11

Problems with adding comments?

I don't know if anyone has noticed it or if anyone even care but I think my settings for commentaries under the posts has been limited before, however I think it is fixed now. If someone still has problem adding comments I would appreciate if I got noticed by my mail or facebook  because I love reading comments :).
Cheers
/Carl

8/27/11

So another day on “the scen up high” above chamonix town


 We are walking towards Pointe Lachenal with the spectators above ever watching, everyone holding their breath, trying not to make a sound… Dead silence as if the smallest distraction could end up with a catastrophe. Thoughts of why and how is the reason for a frustration slowly spreading. Lack of answers… Or understandable answers at least. Questions are nagging in to peoples minds. It just seems so far off common sense, but then again, so pure and real.
People dream, slipping in to the realm of imagination for a moment. For a second they become what we are, they do what we do.
Meanwhile, we live what you dream…

Putting the crampons on

The Ridge


The first pitch

Climbing towards the summit

Evas Hand

And so we met Jude half way up the wall

Eva pulling herself around the last corner of the beautiful 6b+ pitch.

8/12/11

Legendary climb on a legendary stone!

Jimmy Halvardsson called me one day and asked if I wanted to come and try a traverse on the boulder at Pierre d’Orthaz outside Le Praz. Since boulder traverses always has been of lesser interest to me, I wasn’t very psyched. In fact I have always been looking at traverses the way the old alpinists probably looked at bouldering back in the days; something very contrived and pretty pointless except for the single reason of good training, which I might as well get in the gym anyway so why bother?
However, I must say I really enjoyed working on this traverse, the moves on it are so cool and it really has a little bit of everything. Slab moves, crimpers, jugs, slopers, toe hooks, heel hooks, big-, technical- and sensitive moves.

A very nice and warmly recommended traverse located in a very classic area, walking distance from Chamonix.

Don’t forget to grab a coffe at the nice little hotel restaurant next to the parking lot :)


Mike

Mike

Mike
Carl

Carl

Carl

8/4/11

Crack climbing on altitude

I have been walking past those stunning crack lines located underneath the cosmic hut for three years now. Since I first saw them I’ve wanted to climb them and when Linus, Mike and I decided to finally go and try them out I was well excited.
The climbing did not disappoint either. In fact this forty-five meter 7b crack is the best trad single pitch that I have ever tried!! I just can not imagine crack climbing being better than this, not to mention the setting that it is located in! It is just world class!
I gave it all on the onsight and fell not too far from the top. Too wrecked from the onsight push I didn’t have more energy to go for a redpoint attempt.
I am very glad to finally have tried those magic lines and I must say I was pretty stoked to have been so close on the onsight :).


Linus doing his best gangsta posé

Beautiful warm up crack, 6b-ish

The first tricky section

Roof crack with some good smearing
Me fighting my way up the crack, Mont-Blanc in the background.

Linus moving out in to the crack

Linus Shows us how to climb cracks